The contush attire of GDL noblemen: the uniquesynthesis of artistic culture of the East and the West Cover Image

Lietuvos Didžiosios Kunigaikštystės bajoro kostiumas – unikali rytų ir vakarų kultūros tradicijų sampyna
The contush attire of GDL noblemen: the uniquesynthesis of artistic culture of the East and the West

Author(s): Gražina Marija Martinaitienė
Subject(s): Cultural history
Published by: Lietuvos kultūros tyrimų
Keywords: contush attire; GDL; East; West; noblemen

Summary/Abstract: A discussion of the attire known as contush costume, worn by magnates and noblemen in the Two-Nation Republic (Grand Duchy of Lithuania and Poland) in the 16th–18th centuries is presented. The author, based on historical documents, contemporaries’ evidences and iconographical heritage (woodcuts, medals, painted portraits) claims that as early as the 17 century the attires of most variegated origin and form worn before the epoch of Jogaila’s descendants and in its beginning started being replaced by a rather unified costume of another type. It got its shape under a strong influence of Eastern culture, which used to reach the Republic through trade and other relations and via neighbouring countries. In the course of time, this peculiar attire known under various names such as “Sarmatian”, “Polish”, “national” or “contush” costume, became a token of belonging to a certain social stratum or nation. The origin, reasons for appearance and structure of the contush costume are analyzed. A symbolic significance of the specific costume and its role in the period of national resistance are highlighted.

  • Issue Year: 2005
  • Issue No: 12
  • Page Range: 441-451
  • Page Count: 11
  • Language: Lithuanian