Становлення матеріально-культурного підходу у вивченні історії костюма та моди
Becoming of materially-cultural approach in study of history of suit and fashion

Summary/Abstract: In the article the necessity of bringing into the features of forming of the fashion innovations distribution in society the representatives of wide spectrum of sciences is grounded. Influence of fashion and fashion processes on the vital functions of man and his sociological inculcation and relations with other members of society are described. The multi-scientific approach of this issue studying played a considerable role. Transformation of suit as display of evolution of fashion, which reflects the change of identity, accompanies the socially-roles changes in society and predetermines status duality is described. Some fundamental long-term stylistic, form-making and sign-symbolic transformations in a suit, which hold in intercommunication with the economic, socio-political, cultural changes in society, are highlighted. It is well-known that the interest in the adaptation, interpretation and prognostication of fashion standards and tendencies, which have got wide distribution on the border of ХХ and ХХI centuries, appears in many industries of modern culture and economy. There are many different attempts of scientific ground and analytical systematization of information in the field of history of development of suit and fashion, and also information in relation to practical application of these knowledge in modern industry fashion. So, we have the necessity of bringing into the features of forming of the fashion innovations distribution in society the representatives of wide spectrum of sciences such as ethnographers and historians of culture, art critics, artists, economists, marketing specialists, connoisseurs of sociality and culture. Anyway, influence of fashion and fashion processes on the vital functions of man and his sociological inculcation and relations with other members of society needs a research. The multi-scientific approach of this issue studying played a considerable role. The most widespread approach to the studying of history of suit and other rarities of material culture is an ethnographical method. Mainly, it is based on the using of quantitative and analytically-comparative facilities, incident to anthropology, archaeology, history. Obviously, the detailed analysis of different objects of the material culture belongs to materially-historical approach. It is based on the methods of anthropological and sociological character such as interviewing, measuring and supervision, and it is also refreshed by the study of historical texts and graphic documents. During numerous and complicated researches in the field of history of suit and fashion, it is possible to select two opposite points of view on history of suit as industry of cultural and historical cognition. The first one develops on the basis of academic complex approach (history, sociology, economy and etc.) and examines the generalized-abstracted role of textile, suit and fashion in socio-cultural evolution of society. Another one pays great attention to fixing and documenting of complexes or separate part of suit and clothes, accenting on their value as objects of materiallyevident culture and standards of material and technical, trade, economic prosperity of society. Thus, on the crossing point of studying of fashion as the socio-cultural phenomenon and the analysis of suit or clothes as historical rarities of material culture we can make a complex research of development of modern consumer society. In the middle of the ХХ century this approach was adapted and used for studying of textile, suit and clothes as the displays of not only material culture but also socio-cultural communication in society. The fundamental pre-condition of materially-cultural approach is the position that the clothes and parts of it as the objects of material culture express necessities and persuasions of members of society as in the field of socially-psychological communication as in a social and economic system research and determination of the role in the system of public culture values. In making fashion industry and total globalization of fashion standards and tendencies, the conception of cultural authentication and substantial transformation of suit as to the object of material culture is an effective methodology of researches in the field of history of suit. The universality of materially-cultural system approach consists in that fact that it is also applicable to create the principles of transformation of functional types of clothes and new fashion standards in society. Thanked to the result of numerous researches of suit and clothes as artifacts of material culture it is also possible to make conclusions that transformation of suit as display of evolution of fashion, reflects the change of identity which accompanies the socially-roles changes in society. Thus, the researchers of the suit history pay attention to the issue of fashion innovations in society and value of materially-cultural study of suit and objects of material culture as basis for analysis of these innovations. The analysis of the numerous researches demonstrates that some fundamental long-term stylistic, form-making and sign-symbolic transformations in a suit, which hold in intercommunication with the economic, socio-political, cultural changes in society, play great role in society. It is necessary to mark that the history of suit on a modern stage is interesting for researches in the different directions. The interests of the suit history lie in a sphere not only study of structural forming of your and stylistic transformations but also exposure of essence of fashionable innovations, in determination of the consolidated role of suit and style in socio-cultural evolution of society

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