Архивен документ с описание на облеклото в Трънско окръжие през 1888 г
Archival Document Containing Descriptions of Traditional Costumes in Tran Region in 1888

Summary/Abstract: This paper aims to analyse a document containing a description of the costumes, footwear, and accessories from Tran administrative region (okrazhie) in 1888. Duringthis period, the region included three separate districts (okolii): Tran, Tsaribrod, andBreznik. The aforementioned description was required by Bulgaria’s Ministry ofInternal Affairs. The document was signed by the vice secretary of the governor of theTran region who summarized the descriptions sent by the administrators of the threedistricts mentioned. Albeit written ten years after the liberation of Bulgaria from theOttoman rule, when there was no unified standard for the administrative register ofthe literary language, and the orthographical rules varied in the influential grammarsof that time, the document was written in a well-balanced style combining local wordsdenoting clothes, as well as lexemes and forms considered by the administrator to bewidespread and literary ones. Outside the clothing terminology, he did not use locallexis and forms. In addition, he tried to consistently follow the orthographic ruleshe knew using the historical letters ѫ, ѣ, ъ, and ь according to the etymology. Thevariation which occurs in the manner of designation of the definite article reflects thevariation of the orthographic rules at the time being.The account on the female and male costumes witness the transition fromlinen and hemp underclothes to cotton ones, and from the rich embroidery of thefemale costume to ornaments made of lace and stripes. New elements of the costumecertifying for a tendency towards alafranga style (European clothes) are sack andpaletot, which replaced the fur-coats. Imported materials were used mostly forwomen’s head coverings and summer dresses.

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