Ретуш с игла и конец. Професионална етика при реставрацията на престилки от празнична саяна носия от Югозападна България
Retouching with Needle and Thread. Professional Ethics in the Restoration of Aprons from Festive Garments (Saya) from Southwestern Bulgaria

Summary/Abstract: The restoration of traditional Bulgarian clothing (garments) from the end of the 19thand the beginning of the 20th century requires a specific approach, concerning the intervention itself. Every reinforcement, every repair, every retouching with the needle and thread must be so well made that it gives durability of use over time and does not differ from the general vision. Traditional approaches to restoration techniques arenot always appropriate enough for this type of intervention. Owners of such clothing,stored in chests of drawers and closets, require for it to be useable afterwards. The authentic costume, that is about to live its second life, must remain soft, flexible and strong. These qualities are not necessary for a museum exhibit. There, the approach is rather conservative. The retouch in the restoration intervention is the final stage of the professional work on the original. In the case of privately owned costumes,the approach is rather different. Even the base on which the retouching will be done should be as close as possible to the original in terms of structure, texture and color,so that the intervention will be barely noticeable. At the same time, in retouching, the restoration must be strong enough to withstand further use of the costume.

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