Восточные и византийские традиции в комплексе украшений женского костюма Руси (по материалам средневековых городов Беларуси)
Oriental and Byzantine Traditions in a Complex of Ornaments for Women’s Costume in Rus’ (by Materials of Medieval Towns of Belarus)

Author(s): Kristina A. Lavysh
Subject(s): History, Archaeology, Cultural history, Middle Ages, 6th to 12th Centuries, 13th to 14th Centuries
Published by: Издательский дом Stratum, Университет «Высшая антропологическая школа»
Keywords: Rus’; Byzantium; women’s costume; ornaments; diadems; temple pendants (kolty); suspension chains (ryasny); three-bead temple rings; hinged bracelets (consisting of two semicircular sections);cloisonné;
Summary/Abstract: The development of a complex of ornaments for women’s costume in Rus’ in the 11th — 13th centuries was taking place under the significant influence of samples from the Oriental and Byzantine world. Many types of ornaments, the way of wearing them, motifs, as well as the techniques of their manufacturing (cloisonné enamel, filigree, granulation, niello) were borrowed from there. Temple pendants (kolty) with enamel and niello, suspension chains (ryasny), three-bead temple rings, princes’ diadems, neckpieces-humerals, hinged bracelets (consisting of two semicircular sections), twisted and plaited bracelets with terminals decorated with filigree and granulation refer to the remaking of the Byzantine samples in the Old Russian ceremonial attire. Archaeological finds from the excavations of medieval towns оf Belarus related to the Byzantine and Eastern traditions are not as numerous and diverse as finds from the South Rus’, Vladimir-Suzdal and Novgorod lands, but they demonstrate the same process of adaptation and elaboration of the Byzantine and Eastern artistic and cultural traditions. This process can be traced both in the items of ceremonial attire, and in the ordinary ornaments of urban women.

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