CAD/CAM FOR JACQUARD WEAVING - THE PATH FROM DESIGN TO WOVEN FABRIC
CAD/CAM FOR JACQUARD WEAVING - THE PATH FROM DESIGN TO WOVEN FABRIC

Summary/Abstract: Jacquard woven fabrics are a special type of textile materials, which distinguish themselves from regular woven fabrics by the bigger amount of detail that can go into a large-size design. The weaving principle is mostly the same, requiring at least a set of weft yarns (picks) and a set of warp yarns(ends), but the way the ends are handled is what actually makes the difference. In Jacquard weaving, each warp yarn is controlled individually by a hook, rather than by a frame which also incorporates several other yarns, as in normal weaving. Therefore, a difference in the technology needed is also noticeable. We stand on the brink of the fourth industrial revolution, that will fundamentally alter the way we live, work and relate to one another. With that being said, digitalisation is something one must be aware of at all times. The emergence of electronic Jacquard mechanisms has made possible the large-scale use of CAD/CAM (Computer Aided Design and Computer Aided Manufacturing) systems for creating and producing fabrics with complex designs. The introduction of software to this process was a major turning point, reducing the amount of time needed to create the design and generate the card which controls the weaving machine. Nevertheless, precision has also increased, meaning that the software is able to correct human errors, going through each and every binding point and float. Furthermore, IoT (Internet of Things) encompasses a better communication between machines and a seamless wireless exchange of data between the computer where everything is created and the machines. The paper focuses on the methodology of designing and production of original patterns for double weft jacquard woven fabrics, using the Affinity Designer software for designing the repeat unit and the NedGraphics bundle (Texcell, LoomEditor, Weave Editor and Product Creator) for generating the card. A detailed description of the whole process will be provided to the reader, from the initial design file (.jpg or .png) to the generation of the final card (.ep file). It stimulates the curiosity and imagination of both textile engineering and fashion design students through eLearning, giving them a better look inside the whole process of turning their creations into actual products. It also challenges their capability of dealing with several issues and limitations of both software and hardware. The designed fabrics were realised on a Picanol loom equipped with a Bonas electronic Jacquard head, using 2400 hooks.

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