Strój jako narzędzie propagowania mieszczańskiego habitusu – analiza artykułów Barbary Hoff w „Przekroju”
Dress as a tool for propagating the bourgeois habitus: an analysis of Barbara Hoff’s articles in the weekly “Przekrój”

Summary/Abstract: Olga Załęska analyses the content of Barbara Hoff ’s articles in the “Fashion”column in the weekly “Przekrój” in the years 1954–1969. Załęska conducted her researchby taking into account the cultural, social and political context of the Polish People’sRepublic, and primarily focusing on its unofficial class structure. Załęska argues thatHoff ’s publications had a significant symbolic meaning as tools of class struggle and ofopposition to the ruling political power. Thus, they corresponded with the attitude of heintelligentsia whom this weekly brought closer together (as in the case of Leopold Tyrmand).In the “Fashion” column we can detect elements of the bourgeois habitus, whichHoff propagated among readers representing various social classes. Załęska analysesclass aspects of Barbara Hoff 's educational message. Later statements by Hoff and membersof the intelligentsia revolving around “Przekrój” ascribe a subversive potential tofashion as a way to resist the socialist system. Załęska explores this thesis, its defensemade plausible by the assumption that the “resistance against the ruling power” is understoodas a struggle with that power’s aesthetic and cultural aspect.

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