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This paper aims to analyse a document containing a description of the costumes, footwear, and accessories from Tran administrative region (okrazhie) in 1888. Duringthis period, the region included three separate districts (okolii): Tran, Tsaribrod, andBreznik. The aforementioned description was required by Bulgaria’s Ministry ofInternal Affairs. The document was signed by the vice secretary of the governor of theTran region who summarized the descriptions sent by the administrators of the threedistricts mentioned. Albeit written ten years after the liberation of Bulgaria from theOttoman rule, when there was no unified standard for the administrative register ofthe literary language, and the orthographical rules varied in the influential grammarsof that time, the document was written in a well-balanced style combining local wordsdenoting clothes, as well as lexemes and forms considered by the administrator to bewidespread and literary ones. Outside the clothing terminology, he did not use locallexis and forms. In addition, he tried to consistently follow the orthographic ruleshe knew using the historical letters ѫ, ѣ, ъ, and ь according to the etymology. Thevariation which occurs in the manner of designation of the definite article reflects thevariation of the orthographic rules at the time being.The account on the female and male costumes witness the transition fromlinen and hemp underclothes to cotton ones, and from the rich embroidery of thefemale costume to ornaments made of lace and stripes. New elements of the costumecertifying for a tendency towards alafranga style (European clothes) are sack andpaletot, which replaced the fur-coats. Imported materials were used mostly forwomen’s head coverings and summer dresses.
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The Scientific Archive of the Bulgarian Academy of Sciences possesses a little known massive of handwritten documents from the end of the 19th century. These documentsare reports of the Regional Governors to the Minister of the Interior that containdata about the folk costumes of the different population groups in the respectiveregions. The present article analyses the report by the Governor of the Region ofSofia. This document describes the particular types of male and female costumestypical for the different settlements in all the districts of the region. The total lack ofresearch on clothing at that time provokes the author’s interest to discover the reasonslying behind the typologization of the folk costumes in Sofia region. Comparingand analysing the information about the costumes (the elements out of which theywere made; the materials used; the ways of decoration etc.), the author outlines thedifferential markers which provided the reasoning for the typologization. The articleconsists of two parts. The first, which is published in this issue of the journal, analysesthe descriptions of the costumes in Samokov and Sofia districts. The second part willexplore the districts of Zlatitsa, Novoseltsi (Elin Pelin) and Iskrets.
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The article is based on a massive of poorly known archival documents dating from1888 and 1889 and preserved at the Scientific Archives of the Bulgarian Academy of Sciences. These handwritten documents provide information for the population of Bulgaria on its entire territory and describe the different varieties of local costumes atthe end of the 19th century. Photographic images are also added to illustrate the written descriptions. The author focusses her attention on those documents in the massive which indicate that some of the Gagauz women wore shalwars and finds that by theend of the 19th century the garment under consideration was quite popular amongthem. The pattern and manner of wearing such shalwars clearly shows that they wereearlier worn predominantly by Muslim women but were further “adopted” by theOrthodox Gagauz women in the period of modernization of the Ottoman Empire.
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The text describes the history of a family from Samokov named Kotsevi from the XVIII century to the present day. It`s based on a unpublished archive, containing: memories written by Asen Kotsev, a family tree (incomplete) and four pictures. During his work, the author has found more data, which is mentioned in the text. It all begins with the figure of captain Nikola Altsek. There was migration from Albania to the village of Popovyane and then to the town of Samokov. In addition to the history of the family, the text also describes the connections of the family with other families, the occasions of individual members of the family and their houses and private property. Kotsevi were repressed by the Communist regime in Bulgaria (1944–1989). Some, like Kostadin Kotsev were killed. Sotir Kotsev got all his property confiscated by the communist state. Some of these researches are part of a book written by the author, which was published in November 2018.The text describes the history of a family from Samokov named Kotsevi from the XVIII century to the present day. It`s based on a unpublished archive, containing: memories written by Asen Kotsev, a family tree (incomplete) and four pictures. During his work, the author has found more data, which is mentioned in the text. It all begins with the figure of captain Nikola Altsek. There was migration from Albania to the village of Popovyane and then to the town of Samokov. In addition to the history of the family, the text also describes the connections of the family with other families, the occasions of individual members of the family and their houses and private property. Kotsevi were repressed by the Communist regime in Bulgaria (1944–1989). Some, like Kostadin Kotsev were killed. Sotir Kotsev got all his property confiscated by the communist state. Some of these researches are part of a book written by the author, which was published in November 2018.
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The purpose of the article is to determine the influence of the aesthetic ideals of the Italian Renaissance on the formation and stylistic diversity of aristocratic women's hairstyles. The methodology of the study consists of the principles of objectivity, historicism, multifactor, systemicity, complexity, and pluralism; and to achieve the goal methods used: problem chronological, concrete-historical, statistical, descriptive, logical-analytical. Scientific novelty. An art-study analysis of the formation of the style of women's aristocratic hairstyles in Italy in the fourteenth and eighteenth centuries was conducted in the context of Renaissance aesthetics, based on the study of rare sources and archival materials; The role of well-known Italian aristocrats, legislators of the Isabella and Beatrice d'Este, Bianchi Maria Sforza, Batista Sforza, Maddaleni Doni, Eleonora of Toledo, Lucia Albani Avogadro, and others are researched in the process of creating and promoting new styles of women's hairstyles. Conclusions. Based on the study of the specifics of the creation and finishing of aristocratic female hairstyles of the Italian Renaissance, it has been proved that their stylistic and formative features are one aspect of the modification of the human body in accordance with the humanistic views and aesthetic ideals of the Renaissance; It was found that a female hairstyle in the fourteenth and eighteenth centuries was a symbol of individual and group identity.
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This article will study the biographical case of Dorina Simpson, nee Nenchova Ilieva, the particular case of one woman’s persistence, struggle and quest for justice within two very different societies in transition: the fast-communizing post-bourgeois Bulgaria between 1944–48, and the transforming colonial Mauritius of 1950–60, and postcolonial of the 1970s. It focusses on the very dark legacy of the Soviet revolutionary experience – the communist terror, in a way that continues the productive dialogue with Neelke Doorn’s research in the role played by forgiveness, reconciliation and empowerment in transitional justice. It shows how and why forgiveness and reconciliation of Dorina Simpson’s painful past (that of the “communist terror”) occurred within her lifetime, and thereby stresses what else helped her to overcome her social trauma (the broken, emotional relationship with her Bulgarian past and its surrounding world, as a survivor of the ensuing effects of the communist terror).By acknowledging the historicity of one woman’s empowerment and analysing the diverse and complex resources of her distinct woman’s economy – of “enjoying the possibility of risk taking, and a kind of openness” (Cixous/Mitchell), this study will support Tzvetan Todorov’s statement that the “attitude to be a rescuer is not inherent in concrete national tradition or social milieu, but is a question of personal choice”. So, how and why did Dorina Simpson make such choices, extending a helping hand to the excluded others, often in crisis situations, putting at risk her present and future? By searching for some answers, this text deals with Dorina Simpson’s particular legacy, namely – her distinct charity work in colonial and postcolonial Mauritius, and her autobiographical writings, Where Do You Come From?, both transgressing norms and rules to unveil the politics that tend to corrupt.By enhancing the concept of woman’s economy, within the capitalist economy of gift exchange relationships, it emphasizes the role of women’s cultural intermediation between the fields of political and social powers, and this role is a story of woman’s empowerment within unjust transitional societies. So this study shows why social productiveness of her female persistence, struggle and quest for justice ended in involving “both justice, as acknowledgement of wrongs and absence of structural inequalities” (Honneth/Doorn) for the helpless, one woman obtained another ‘profit in return’, the affective one – she dealt with her historical trauma.This study is based on Dorina Simpson’s private archive and documents in national archives (Bulgarian, British, and Italian) and international organizations (the World Health Organization and World Federation of Mental Health, ICRC), to which I was led by discovering the specific loci of her social exclusion and prestigious recognition. And it is conceptualized within a microhistory paradigm, sharpening the scholar’s attention to the uniqueness of human experience and hence to the fears, premonitions, dreams and yearnings of the separate being; so that its approaches remain very sensitive to how individuals experience historical events by contesting the paradigms of norm and power.
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“Crossense” is an innovative gaming technique that can successfully find its place in history and civilization classes in Bulgarian schools. It is best suited to keep students’ previous knowledge up-to-date as well as to motivate the new topic, but it is also applicable in other components of the lesson. This way a students’ creative and critical thinking has been formed through “Crossense”.
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The article highlights issues related to the problems of studying the history of Eastern Europe, the definition of Slavic identity and the construction of national Slavic historical memory, which were discussed by domestic and foreign researchers in the framework of the First international St. Petersburg historical forum (October 29–November 3, 2019).
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